Match of the week

Roast venison with Chateau Talbot 1982
I was lucky enough to dine in a Cambridge college, Peterhouse, last week and even more fortunate to drink a 1982 Chateau Talbot.
Oxbridge colleges have famously well-stocked cellars so this is the kind of wine they have ready access to - something that can’t be said of most wine writers - or certainly not this one. (This is one of the relatively few opportunities I’ve had to drink a Bordeaux of this age*)
Although their catering arrangements don’t tend to be quite so impressive the very traditional fare they serve actually suits older wines perfectly and the main course of rare - and impressively tender - venison, a small amount of not overly rich red wine sauce, gratin dauphinoise (no or very little cheese) and broccoli and cauliflower (neutral) couldn’t have been a better foil for the wine which was still miraculously fresh but with a beautifully soft, velvety texture.

We also had a chance to taste the 2004 Cain Five which was also quite mesmeric but not until after the meal. That would have been equally delicious (and is still available from Justerini & Brooks)
It underlines that it’s well worth keeping things classic when you have the chance to drink a great bottle.
*I do rather like the idea however of buying it by the half bottle which you can do from Lea & Sandeman at the moment for £25.75 a single bottle or £23.75 per bottle if you buy a case. (For the 2012)
You may also enjoy
What kind of food should you serve with fine wine?
Excuse dark, fuzzy photos. The dining room was atmospherically candlelit. No concessions to instagrammers ;-)

Navarin of lamb and 2002 Chateau des Estanilles Faugères
Last week we were down at our house in Languedoc mainly cooking from home* and raiding the cellar for wines we thought needed drinking up - at least that was our excuse!
One foray unearthed this 2002 vintage of Chateau des Estanilles Faugères a wine we used to buy regularly from its previous proprietor Michel Louison who is now making wine at Domaine Lamartine near Limoux. It’s a full-bodied syrah but age has mellowed it and made it silky and delicate - the ideal match for a simple spring navarin of lamb, carrots and turnips made with white wine rather than red.

I wouldn’t have drunk the same wine with it while young - it would have been too tannic and powerful for the dish but this grand old wine matched it perfectly. You could also drink a typical Languedoc white - we tried a glass of a Chateau Paul Mas 2014 Belluguette Coteau du Languedoc** we’d been tasting with the leftovers and that worked very well too.
* Though we did have a very good meal at the Auberge de Combes. See my review here.
** a blend of Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, Roussanne and Viognier

Fresh crab salad and 17 year old Muscadet (and yes, you did read that right!)
Apologies for returning once again to the subject of crab but it is one of my favourite summer foods and this was the outstanding match of last week.
The occasion was a lunch at The Seahorse in Devon to celebrate the launch of a campaign to promote South Devon crab which I’ve written about on my blog Food and Wine Finds but I didn’t touch on the very interesting wine pairings with which we experimented.
The most fascinating one was a 17 year old Muscadet Sevre et Maine called Le L d’Or from Pierre Luneau-Papin from the 1993 vintage. The idea of Muscadet lasting that long is almost inconceivable but it was still astonishingly fresh - piercingly intense and mineral and a perfect wine for the simply prepared crab salad we were served. You can read more about his domaine Pierre de la Grange here on winedoctor.
We also had a couple of other bottles open, a Costa di Giula 2008, a lush Vermentino-Sauvignon bland from Michele Satta Bolgheri which was particularly good with a dish of spiced brown crab and an exotically scented Traminer Aromatico from Conte Brandolini d’Adda which would have been better with a spicier preparation still such as spicy crab linguine or a south Indian crab curry.
I realise from my previous posts that I’ve found a fair number of good matches for fresh crab which does underline that it is one of the best types of seafood with which to enjoy an elegant, crisp dry white whether it’s a Muscadet, Sauvignon, Chablis or Albarino. Or a fine Chenin Blanc as I suggested the other week.
Most popular
.jpg)
My latest book

News and views
.jpg)


